Rebuild costs.
- Thread starter homerjay
- Start date
Fitting a headset and bb should cost you nothing, easy jobs for the home fettler. Wheel rebuilds can cost a lot, wound £50 or so. I've often relaced the wheels myself to as true and round as I can get them, then take them to a bike shop to true, that way it only costs £5-10 depending on how close I've got.
cycletothesea
Retro Guru
Fitting a headset properly is not an easy job unless you've already invested in the right tools and headset presses aren't cheap. It's the one job I let my LBS do for £10 a time.
I pressed headset cups in a frame, the other day, with a makeshift headset press from the bay of E, that cost £3 or £4.cycletothesea":2gr6xd9w said:
Worked just fine. One cup at a time, and being a bit careful, but all the same, took no time at all and wasn't expensive. Nor was my crown race installation tool - a length of plastic plumbing pipe with a plastic end cap (for the mallet end) and a plastic joint for connecting with the crown race.
I have got proper, dedicated tools for your removing headset cups, though, and for removing crown races (the type that's like a chunky, oversized, tuning fork).
frank.youngman
Retro Guru
Powder coat gets everywhere so on each of my builds I have had my LBS face and fit the headset (£
and also face and re-cut the bottom bracket threads (£.Three of my builds were Cannondales which can be delicate if you get ham fisted with them,so I was happy to pass the job over to my LBS.
I have had one set of wheels built up using my new hubs and NOS rims.My LBS charges £24 per wheel for the build plus £24/£27 to supply new Sapim DT stainless spokes,depending on spoke count.
and also face and re-cut the bottom bracket threads (£.Three of my builds were Cannondales which can be delicate if you get ham fisted with them,so I was happy to pass the job over to my LBS.I have had one set of wheels built up using my new hubs and NOS rims.My LBS charges £24 per wheel for the build plus £24/£27 to supply new Sapim DT stainless spokes,depending on spoke count.
Rod_Saetan
Old School Grand Master
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He did say 'facing' the headset, which the majority of people can't do at home, unless they have the £200 odd Park tool for it of course, the same with chasing threads in the BB. As eluded to above, you may be able to knock a headset in with a rusty mallet and a window ledge, but sometimes it makes sense to use the correct tool.
London prices for the facing and fitting of headset: £30
Facing BB shell, chasing threads and fitting BB: £30
Wheel rebuild: £45-50
London prices for the facing and fitting of headset: £30
Facing BB shell, chasing threads and fitting BB: £30
Wheel rebuild: £45-50
In fairness, the post I was replying to was talking about pressing in the headset.Rod_Saetan":hx0ccet9 said:
And personally, I don't mind compromising on tools, but I don't go as far as bashing stuff around with screwdrivers and hammers.
All the same, the makeshift headset press I used, worked just peachy, and cost peanuts. Yes, I'll get a better one, but just to press in headsets, doesn't necessarily take either very expensive tools, or is expertise that only a LBS can perform. Not being ham-fisted, taking your time and care over it, and it's perfectly possible to do with make-shift / impromptu tools, that don't require just bashing the cups in.
Facing may be required - but shouldn't be required for every subsequent installation. And true enough, were it actually required for one of my builds, I probably would pay a bike shoppe to do so - problem is, you hear just as many bad / mediocre accounts of people doing so - sometimes it's just worth getting the tool and doing it yourself.Rod_Saetan":hx0ccet9 said:
I try to be as self-sufficient as possible with bike builds - partly for the flexible nature of it, and partly because I'm not that keen on paying somebody to do a mediocre job I can just as happily do in the same mediocre fashion.
Different if you've got a very good, trustworthy bike shop nearby, and are happy to accomodate the delays and costs.
trying to twat a headset in with wood and hammers occasionally leads to split headtubes.
Especially on lightweight alloy frames like Orange E2s
I have a home made press I use for working on chod, but when I'm working on my nice stuff, I go to the pro-level workshop I have keys for...
Especially on lightweight alloy frames like Orange E2s
I have a home made press I use for working on chod, but when I'm working on my nice stuff, I go to the pro-level workshop I have keys for...
Thing is, nobody has suggested bashing a headset in with a hammer / mallet - it just seems a faulty interpretation from a suggestion that home-made / improvised tools can do some of these - and let's face it, they are - simple tasks, without requiring a skilled, professional, mechanic from Halfords...cce":6zjtur3m said:
A homemade press is different from bashing / shocking cups into a frame. Depending on how it connects with the cups, it may not center as good as a proper press, but being careful, and doing one cup at a time, it hardly seems risky. It's done quite progressively - it's not like there's some point of no return like bashing it with a hammer / mallet, and percurssive maintenance.cce":6zjtur3m said:
I'll buy a better press at some point - because I think it makes alignment of the cups simpler and easier. But truth be told, I find getting the cup in the right position first, then slowly using the press and making sure it's not shifting around and is centred, works just fine.
