Shimano 600 (1980s) v MF-TZ500-6 (2025)

Mr Weirdo

Retro Guru
Hello
Because I find this sort of thing interesting, sorry lol I thought I would compare the weight of a Shimano 600 (1980s) 6 speed 13 to 18 freewheel (a time trial spread of sprockets?) to a Tourney (2025) 6 speed 14 to 28 (a more normal spread for 6 speed?) freewheel.

The Shimano 600 weighed 335g

The Tourney weighed 366g

So only a difference of 31g

Now because I can not find a decent 6 speed Shimano 600 spread for reasonable money I'm going to install the Tourney instead and see how I get on.

So weight wise not a lot...but quality? It looks ok 😁
 
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The search for decent freewheels - the challenge facing every remaining screw on rider. OEM Shimano freewheels are as you point out going to have gearing firmly on the macho side with corn on the cob gaps. They considered a 21T largest sprocket a concession! Regina and the like...theres going to be stuff out there but its expensive and the gearing remains macho.

Nothing wrong with the Tourney block if you want to ride your bike. You'll welcome the 28T at some point. I had good experiences with the ETC and Monsoon brands (Possibly the same thing) which are very cheap but work fine as long as you understand they are disposable objects. Biggest problem I've had with new freewheels is when they sit on the shelf for years and the lube/grease inside goes off. Where the locking plates are put on by machine they can be impossible to get off to get some fresh lube in there.
 
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Thanks LC, I wondered what the new alternatives where to Shimano other than Sunrace.

I've read somewhere though that some ebikes tend to use screw on freewheels? If so then maybe a reason to manufacture better quality blocks as they are still relevant?

😀
 
I'm not saying I am 100 per cent on the ebike thing but I will give it a further look.

Thanks for the reply sometimes you post something hoping someone may be interested lol

The grease thing....I always pray and hope when I buy a second hand rear wheel with a screw on that somebody has greased it well....hoping it hasn't dried out.

Have a good week!
 
The search for decent freewheels - the challenge facing every remaining screw on rider. OEM Shimano freewheels are as you point out going to have gearing firmly on the macho side with corn on the cob gaps. They considered a 21T largest sprocket a concession! Regina and the like...theres going to be stuff out there but its expensive and the gearing remains macho.

Nothing wrong with the Tourney block if you want to ride your bike. You'll welcome the 28T at some point. I had good experiences with the ETC and Monsoon brands (Possibly the same thing) which are very cheap but work fine as long as you understand they are disposable objects. Biggest problem I've had with new freewheels is when they sit on the shelf for years and the lube/grease inside goes off. Where the locking plates are put on by machine they can be impossible to get off to get some fresh lube in there.
Cheap freewheels aren't "square" on the hub, so waver from side to side as they turn.

Cheap ebikes get almost no power input from the rider, so a cheap freewheel is all they need, until it rains and then they fail.

Big fave: stuffed cheapo freewheel on ebike - power cable through the axle on the freewheel side, no connector to detach, so it's time to open the plastic box and look at the solder connectors🤣as if.
We don't turn many bikes away, but this is one.
 
Cheap freewheels aren't "square" on the hub, so waver from side to side as they turn.

Cheap ebikes get almost no power input from the rider, so a cheap freewheel is all they need, until it rains and then they fail.

Big fave: stuffed cheapo freewheel on ebike - power cable through the axle on the freewheel side, no connector to detach, so it's time to open the plastic box and look at the solder connectors🤣as if.
We don't turn many bikes away, but this is one.
Yeah, I kind of like that flutter/ wobble (though I never saw it in 'drive' / forward motion of the freewheel, only freewheeling. I accept its probably not doing anything for efficiency.

I would hate to have to work on cheap ebikes - just as plasticine as a cheap bike but more complexity and you get blamed if it burns down someones house.
 
With the freewheel locked in "drive", the inaccuracy between sprocket mounting and freewheel bearing is lost - you only get to see the inaccuracy between the sprockets and the hub threads, and in turn the axle.
You see some bsos & e-bsos that attempt to change gear every freewheel revolution they are so far out of concentric🙄
 
Cheap freewheels aren't "square" on the hub, so waver from side to side as they turn.

Cheap ebikes get almost no power input from the rider, so a cheap freewheel is all they need, until it rains and then they fail.

Big fave: stuffed cheapo freewheel on ebike - power cable through the axle on the freewheel side, no connector to detach, so it's time to open the plastic box and look at the solder connectors🤣as if.
We don't turn many bikes away, but this is one.
I will take your word for it lol So there you go 😀
 
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